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An Exquisite Scar

Much of what we now understand about the region’s basalt is the work of geochemist Peter Hooper, who recently retired from WSU. He and Don Swanson ’60, a former student who moved on to the U.S. Geological Survey, mapped the basalts.

Webster’s expertise is the Cenozoic, that relatively brief geologic period that, beginning about 65 million years ago, overlaps with the existence of mammals and seed-bearing plants on Earth. Webster, with colleagues from Yakima, Eastern Washington University, and University of Washington, mapped the interstitial deposits, the gravels and soils, that cover the basalt of the Columbia Plateau. He drove virtually every road in this area, he says.

As fundamental and permanent as the basalt would now seem, Webster points out the cracks in the opposite canyon walls, the very existence of the canyon itself. We are deep within otherwise solid rock. What possibly could have carved this canyon?

It’s only recently that geologists broke out of the intellectual prison of uniformitarianism, the notion that geologic phenomena can always be explained by gradual, calmly fathomable events.

J Harlen Bretz started out within that camp. But years of contemplating the Channeled Scablands transformed him and Cenozoic geology.

A University of Chicago geologist who had become fascinated with Pacific Northwest geology as a high school biology teacher in Seattle, Bretz finally understood that the only thing that could have created the scablands was an unimaginably massive flood.

But the idea of a flood so cataclysmic that it ripped a scar down eastern Washington, scouring out the Grand Coulee, ripping through solid basalt to create the Palouse River canyon, was simply unfathomable to anyone who had not contemplated the scablands as Bretz had, particularly anyone comfortably ensconced in the sureness of uniformitarianism.

Webster recounts the story told him by former Geology chair Charles Campbell, who was at the American Association for the Advancement of Science meeting in 1940 that was the turning point in the debate over the scablands’ origin. Sure as he was about the giant ripple marks and clearly defined channels, Bretz was plagued by a lingering question: What was the source of the water?

Then Joseph Pardee got up to talk about giant ripple marks in the bed of Glacial Lake Missoula—which could only have been created by a sudden outrush of water.

As soon as Pardee finished, Bretz leaped up. “There’s my water!” he said.

No one knows, says Webster, why Bretz had not yet connected his theory to Pardee’s work. Pardee had first published his observations more than 20 years earlier. Regardless, Bretz finally had his water, and the reluctant uniformitarians gradually gave in.

What Bretz had understood about the strange and beautiful scablands is what we now understand. Fifteen thousand years ago, chunks of glacial ice had formed a dam above Clark Fork, Idaho, backing up a 180-mile-long lake that contained as much water as today’s lakes Erie and Ontario combined.

When the dam collapsed, the water rushed westward at 45 miles per hour, scouring the landscape down to basalt, a flood so powerful it chewed into the volcanic basalt, following existing drainages as it could, then creating its own drainages when it overwhelmed them. One flow swept westward from Spokane, then down through the Quincy Basin, another down the Crab Creek drainage near Odessa. A third swept down through present-day Cheney, through Washtucna and Pasco. Near Pasco, the flows recombined at Wallula Gap, along the present-day course of the Columbia. Formed by bluffs only a mile apart, the Wallula Gap constricted the flow, forcing the water to back up behind it.

From there, it surged down the Columbia, still powerful enough when it reached the coast that it deposited huge granite boulders in the Willamette Valley it had carried, probably in chunks of ice, all the way from Idaho.

But this happened not just once, says Webster. It may have happened as many as 105 times.

Continued

 
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a trail through time

Gary Kleinknecht ’72 and I are sitting in his car looking across the river at the Wallula Gap, trying to comprehend the hundreds of cubic miles of water that flowed through the gap over the course of two weeks some 15,000 years ago. Then we silently multiply that iconic flood by however many floods actually sent water through the gap.

Kleinknecht, who teaches history at Kamiaken High School in Kennewick, is one of many disciples of J Harlen Bretz who have become captivated by the colossal forces that transformed the Northwest landscape. As a result, he says, he’s been transformed by his new understanding of his surroundings.

Kleinknecht is a member of the growing Ice Age Floods Institute, a nonprofit group of geologists, both professional and amateur, and other curious folks dedicated to informing the public about the ice-age floods. They stage field trips, provide information, and work toward providing more interpretation of the floods’ impact.

Their most ambitious goal may be the Ice Age Floods National Geographic Trail. The trail would be a network of marked routes across the parts of Montana, Idaho, Washington, and Oregon that bear the effects of the ice-age floods, along with interpretive centers.

Such an interpretive site would likely be built where Kleinknecht and I are contemplating the Wallula Gap. This must be one of the most dramatic spots in the country, once you understand what it was like 15,000 years ago.

So far the trail is realized only as a proposal to Congress by the National Park Service. In late July, Senator Maria Cantwell and Representative Doc Hastings announced they would introduce a bill designating a route for the trail. For the Park Service’s report to go forward, a bill must be introduced.

How likely is the trail’s realization?

“It depends what day it is,” says Kleinknecht.

www.iceagefloodsinstitute.org

www.nps.gov/iceagefloods

—Tim Steury