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An Exquisite Scar

A European landscape

The last person to reach the bottom of the canyon is Rich Old (’77, M.S. ’81, Ph.D. University of Idaho), distracted often on the way down by plants in general, weeds in particular.

He seems disturbed by the fact that a plant that he had hoped to find today, Phacelia ramosissima, is not yet in flower. But he’s dazzled by the Thelypodium, lovely long-stemmed flower stalks growing out of the sheer cliffs. “It’s incredible,” he says, “not only that they’re established there, but the seed rain it takes to get them there.” The only way the seeds could have landed in the cracks of the basalt would be to have been carried by the fierce winds that sweep through the canyon.

Old, who is probably the leading expert on the plant life of the scablands, is also the creator of the most comprehensive weed identification guide ever written.

“The reason I’m into weeds,” he says, “is I hate what they do to our native [plants].”

Old has been my guide through the scablands over the last couple of years. With him, I have tasted red ants (sour from formic acid) and dog lichen (tastes like bubblegum). I have learned that the flower stalk of mullein was burned by the local Indians to treat hemorrhoids and respiratory problems. Old’s knowledge of the area’s plants and ecology is encyclopedic. He seems to thrive on sharing his knowledge and excitement. He has taught survival classes for Army ROTC and poisonous plant identification to WSU veterinary students. He’s a born teacher, though a little too straightforward and independent for academe. Though not didactic, he is demanding. Once he identifies something for you, he expects you to remember, no matter how many syllables.

Lomatium, Antennaria, Erodium. Camas, miner’s lettuce, baby blue-lips.

Bromus tectorum. That’s one I can remember. Cheatgrass: scourge and transformer of the arid West. But here’s another one, even worse. Taeniatherum caput-medusae—Medusa head. Not many plant names send shivers up the spine. But this plant is truly diabolical in its survival strategy and persistence.

“See how it falls down and forms a thick litter layer,” says Old. “It doesn’t biodegrade.” In fact, it builds up year after year, choking out everything else. But here’s the truly ingenious adaptation. The seeds extend their radical down through the litter into the ground. Nothing else can do that, says Old.

And then there’s fire. Fire was part of the scablands ecology, says Old. But the fires did not burn very hot. Natives such as bluebunch wheatgrass would come right back. But Medusa head, with its litter build-up, burns explosively, killing off everything else. Except for its own seeds.

Like Webster, though obviously within a different time-frame, Old tends to look at things in terms of the past. “When we’re talking about vegetation in eastern Washington,” he says, “we’re talking about history, about the way things used to be.”

Pristine scabland looks bare, says Old. “If you were here a hundred years ago, it would look like a bunch and a bunch and bare ground,” he says, referring to the native bunchgrass. “But it’s not bare at all. It’s got a solid skin of mosses and lichens. That’s what held this together.”

That fragile skin was largely destroyed by the trampling of cattle, as well as by pocket gophers, driven down into the scabland from the more hospitable loess by tillage. Gophers churn the ground up, again destroying the crust. And once that thin but protective skin is gone, the “original scabland” is history. As John Thompson, formerly of Botany and Zoology, and Dick Mack, Botany, have argued, the ground of eastern Washington is so fragile because it was never grazed by large ungulates. Native plants had never adapted to such treatment, and exotics, some carried intentionally, some not, by European settlers, rushed in to take the natives’ place.

 
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Richard Old ’77

 

 
 

“You could take a piece of ground and write out your species composition,” says Old of the scablands today, “and you could be standing in southern Europe.”

Continued

 

Scoured by the Missoula Floods 15,000 years ago, Rock Lake is nine miles long and, like most of the scablands, lonely.