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Steve Wymer conducts a training session for students at the University of Elbasan.

II

We began today with a ceremony to recognize the student leaders at the University of Tirana. Since their recently-held elections are the first ever to be truly recognized by their administration since the old student governments that were controlled by the communist regime, it was a big step for these students to be accepted by the university rector (president who is elected and very much a political type of position with great power).

I liked the title "rector," and U of Tirana's was a nice enough guy, but I assure you that these "rectors" at Albanian universities are far from the strong, principled presidents of many of our fine institutions of higher learning in the US. The rector at the University of Tirana has nearly $20 million to use at his discretion each year and has beautifully renovated his own offices, upgraded his motorcade to new BMWs, and pretty much decked himself out. Unfortunately, his renovation efforts skipped the library and any other part of the school that mattered to the students. Literally, most of the school looks like it is 200 years old and in utter disarray. These rectors stand for elections every few years, and although the rector of the University of Tirana should have stood for election last year, the elections have been mysteriously pushed back. Some say it is because he is waiting for a popularity surge before he gives the wink to some folks in Parliament who will begin elections.

It's hard not to be cynical of so many of the older elite leaders, as all of them grew up in communism and they really have a different idea of what true democracy is than we do in America. Students actually fear that if they stand up to professors who treat them poorly, they will be failed. It is very common for students to bribe their way into colleges and bribe their way out with a degree.

Essentially, the university administration operates on an age-old tradition of hierarchy, and professors hold a very high place in society in spite of their actual abilities. These professors are VERY opposed to students being involved in any aspect of the governance of the institution, and they get testy, to say the least, when students voice their concerns. I thought a rec center at WSU was tough to build—these students just want a say in ANYTHING! Matt Caires [ASWSU president 1996-97] with his "anti-Bookie" pin might just find himself in some pretty dangerous waters here, and Sam Reed certainly wouldn't like the armed students who stole a ballot box from the College of Economics student elections last month. Let's just say that Dino Rossi [Republican opponent of Washington governor Christine Gregoire, who contested the election results] would have many friends here, because true election results certainly don't count in lots of these situations, as personal connections and friendships supersede.

Before we left the capital city today, the folks with the State Department and I also met with the deputy prime minister of Albania for education. She seems to understand where they need to go, and is working hard to get there. I was impressed with her commitment to supporting student governance, and she was a very kind lady.

This afternoon we traveled from the capital city of Tirana a couple of hours south over a steep mountain pass. The scenes were beautiful, and I was shocked to come over the mountain and look down on the largest steel mill I have ever seen. They told me that the mill hasn't been working for decades, because it is so much cheaper to import the metal from Sweden, but it certainly helps you understand the massive shifts and adjustments this country has undertaken in just my lifetime.

At the University of Elbasan, I trained student senators for almost five hours. It was grueling, because many of the students understand a little English, so they try hard to understand what you are saying, but they don't. I have resorted to just using my translator the whole time, and I think that works, but it is so hard to get into my rhythm of speaking. Just as I am about to make a decent point, I have to stop and let my translator relay. Since many things don't translate perfectly (especially some of my crazy passion for student empowerment and democracy), the translator takes about four times as long as I took in saying something to relay it back to the audience. With 50 people or so trying to understand, and their fierce questioning, it gets tough.

Wymer and student senators, University of Elbasan.

One funny note was that in preparing the PowerPoints I was using, I found a grey Albanian flag and used it with a graphic. Little did I know, but the flag is the communist Albanian flag. It was kind of like flying husky colors at Martin Stadium . . . (a mortal sin). Fortunately, they forgave me, but I learned a valuable lesson about how the symbols of their old regime still pop out now and again. It would be easier for these students to embrace some of the Western ideas they are so curious about if they were 100-percent sold on democracy in the first place. Albania is a very good friend of the USA, and they support us in everything, but they are still figuring this whole "democracy" deal out. I have been introduced to at least half a dozen people who nearly yelled at my translator, as they wanted me to know that they have almost 100 Albanian marines in Mosul, Iraq, and they know George Bush is undertaking a worthy cause. They really want us to know that they support us. It may have a lot to do with the reality that they know that democracy MUST work at the footsteps of Europe if it is to work in the Middle East. I will certainly return home with a greater appreciation of our State Department work in places like Albania.

Anyway, it's late here, and I better end this note and go to bed, but I am so excited for the future here in Albania. These students represent the future of the country. They are passionate (they argue all the time, very loudly!) but they are passionate about making a difference, and they want to impact their communities.

My only regret is that I can't really connect with them in their native language, but for now, the translator will have to do.

Tomorrow I am headed to the Adriatic Sea to train some students in Vlora.

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